What is plant-based arbutin?
Arbutin is a potent compound obtained from natural plants that acts at the heart of the skin cells. Described as a plant-based blemish remover, it is the most effective lightening substance in biotechnological cosmetics. It supports the increase of cellular energy (ATP) needed for the skin's essential functions and helps re-establish correct communication between cells; it is the most important factor in the visible reduction of blemishes.
Where is it obtained from?
Arbutin is found in high concentration in bearberry, and also in wheat, pear peel and arbutus leaves, and in small amounts in cranberry and blueberry leaves.
How does it act on the skin?
Arbutin replaces excess melanin in the skin with a colourless substance and, by combining with certain enzymes, prevents excess tyrosine oxidation. It thus halts the progression of blemishes caused by sun damage and skin injuries (acne, spots) through increased melanin in the epidermis.
Is there research on this?
A study by Dr. Ashok K. Chakraborty, Assoc. Prof. Mari Komoto and Dr. Yoko Funasaka at Kobe University found that plant-based arbutin reduced the melanin synthesis behind skin blemishes by 20% in 5 days. Research at the Ezaki Glico Biochemical Research Laboratory and the Osaka Prefecture University laboratories of applied molecular biology and biochemistry found melanin synthesis reduced by 40% compared with controls. Arbutin is even more effective combined with plant placenta.
How does it work?
All blemish removers aim to suppress tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin production; arbutin blocks both its synthesis and its activation. Skin cells renew every 28 days, so the effect of any skin care product becomes noticeable after a month and peaks in the second month. By suppressing tyrosinase during this renewal, arbutin makes the new skin clearer and brighter.
Japan leads the countries that seek solutions for skin blemishes and uses the most lightening creams and masks, while protecting carefully from the sun. In Europe blemish-reducing sunscreens are widely used; in the United States lightening anti-ageing creams, masks and serums are preferred in winter. In Turkey tanning remains popular, but with the thinning of the ozone layer clearer skin is becoming the trend worldwide.
How to prevent blemishes
Because ultraviolet rays trigger melanin formation in winter as well as summer, using sunscreen in every season prevents blemishes from forming and progressing. Skin care products should preferably contain plant-based lightening agents such as arbutin, soybean, liquorice root and green tea.